A Saga of Three Seats
Nestled at the head of a sea loch on the wild southern coast of Mull, the estate of Lochbuie represents one of the oldest defined territories in the Hebrides. While the grand Georgian mansion known today as Lochbuie House commands the view, it serves as just the latest chapter in a long saga. In reality, the Maclaine family’s tenure on this land, spanning over five centuries, is defined by three distinct seats of power.
To understand the house, you have to look beyond the current mortar and stone. The estate evolved from a medieval fortress to a modest eighteenth-century dwelling, and finally to the imposing mansion that stands today. Each building reflects a specific era in the turbulent history of the Clan Maclaine, moving from the need for defense to the desire for comfort, and eventually, the ambition of high society.
Ancient Roots and Standing Stones
Long before masons laid the first stone of any castle, this specific corner of Mull already held significance. The Lochbuie Stone Circle, located just a short walk from the house, serves as a silent testament to the prehistoric inhabitants of the glen. Dating back to the Bronze Age, these granite sentinels form the only stone circle on the island. For thousands of years, they have stood guard in the shadow of Ben Buie. However, these stones belong to a forgotten era, completely unrelated to the later clan history. They simply stood as silent witnesses when the Maclaines eventually arrived to claim the land thousands of years later.
The First Seat: The Fortress of Moy
The recorded history of the estate begins on the shoreline with the formidable Moy Castle. Hector Maclaine, the founder of the clan, built this tower house in the fifteenth century to serve as the original seat of the Chiefs of Lochbuie. Hector was the brother of Maclean of Duart, and the two branches of the family often clashed, which necessitated strong fortifications. For hundreds of years, Moy Castle functioned as a necessary stronghold in a violent age, offering protection against rival clans and the unpredictable power of the Lords of the Isles.
A Dungeon of Dark Secrets
The builders designed the castle for survival rather than luxury. The ground floor features a remarkable well cut directly into the solid rock, ensuring a fresh water supply even during a siege. But the castle also holds a darker secret. Beneath the floor lies a bottle-shaped dungeon, or oubliette, which the chief used to imprison enemies. This pit prison contains a constant supply of water at its base. This meant the cold water forced any prisoner thrown into the darkness to stand, unable to sit or sleep without drowning.
The Legend of the Headless Horseman
Within these thick stone walls, clan legends emerged, including the chilling tale of Ewen of the Little Head. According to local history, Ewen was the son of the fifth chief, Iain Og. In 1538, a dispute arose between father and son, fuelled by Ewen’s ambitious wife, whom locals knew as the Black Swan. The argument escalated into a full-scale battle at Glen Cannir. During the fighting, a Duart clansman severed Ewen’s head with a claymore. Legend states that his horse continued to gallop with the headless body held in the stirrups. To this day, the Maclaines believe that the ghostly sound of hooves and the sight of the headless horseman signal an approaching death in the chief’s family.
The Second Seat: The Old Lochbuie House
By the middle of the eighteenth century, the political landscape of the Highlands had changed. The threat of clan warfare had diminished, and living conditions in a damp medieval tower had become intolerable for a modernizing family. So, John Maclaine, the 17th Chief, decided to abandon Moy Castle in 1752. He constructed a new residence nearby, which locals now refer to as the “Old House.”
This second seat was a relatively modest two-story dwelling with a slated roof. Although it lacked the grandeur of a palace, it offered the warmth, light, and ventilation that the castle could not. It represented a shift in priority from defense to domesticity, allowing the chief to live as a gentleman rather than a warrior lord. The building still stands today behind the current mansion, though the estate now uses it as outbuildings rather than a residence.
A Famous Encounter with Johnson and Boswell
The famous literary travellers Samuel Johnson and James Boswell stayed in this specific building during their tour of the Hebrides in 1773. Boswell described the chief as a “bluff, comely, noisy old gentleman,” and famously recorded a tense moment at the dinner table. The chief asked Dr. Johnson if he came from the Johnston clan of Glencoe. When Johnson clarified he was English, the chief abruptly retorted that he was glad, as the Johnstons of Glencoe were known thieves. This encounter has immortalized the “Old House” in literary history, capturing the clash between the rough hospitality of the old Highlands and the refined manners of London society.
The Third Seat: The Georgian Mansion
The modest 1752 house did not satisfy the ambitions of the Maclaines for long. As the eighteenth century drew to a close, the family sought a residence that reflected their status as significant landowners. In 1790, Murdoch Maclaine, the 19th Chief, completed the construction of the third and final seat of power: the current Lochbuie House. He built it in the classic Georgian style to project wealth and stability. It features a harled exterior, symmetrical windows, and a commanding position that overlooks the loch and the ancient castle ruins below.
Throughout the nineteenth century, this house served as the center of a vast sporting estate. The family added wings to the building and developed the surrounding grounds to accommodate the lifestyle of the Victorian gentry. One of the most colourful characters to inhabit the house was Murdoch Maclaine, the 23rd Chief. Born in 1814, he was a man of immense personality who spent much of his life abroad.
The Eccentricities of Murdoch Maclaine
Murdoch’s pride in his heritage was legendary. On one occasion, when Murdoch arrived late to a formal dinner in Oban, the Duke of Argyll sent a butler to ask him to sit at the head of the table. Murdoch famously retorted, “Where Lochbuie sits is the head of the table.” This anecdote perfectly captures the spirit of a chief who, despite living in a changing world, maintained the fierce pride of his ancestors.
The Chapel of St. Kilda
In 1876, this same Murdoch left a permanent mark on the estate by building St. Kilda’s Chapel. Located near the shore, eclectic treasures collected during his travels fill this small Episcopal church. These include a stone from the altar of a church in Metz, which he rescued during his time in Europe, and a crucifix carved by Joseph Mayer, a celebrated woodcarver and actor from Oberammergau, Bavaria. The chapel stands as a unique monument to the worldly and eccentric nature of the Victorian Maclaines.
The Fall of the Maclaines
Despite the grandeur of the Georgian era, the Maclaine tenure at Lochbuie came to a heartbreaking end in the early twentieth century. The lavish lifestyle and the changing economic realities of the Highlands took a severe toll on the family finances. Kenneth Maclaine, the 24th Chief, inherited a difficult situation. Known as “The Singing Chief,” he possessed a fine voice and, in a desperate attempt to save his ancestral home, took to the stage to perform Gaelic songs in music halls.
The Singing Chief’s Last Stand
Sadly, his efforts were not enough. Following a lawsuit over a debt, creditors seized the estate. Kenneth had to sell Lochbuie in 1920, marking the definitive end of over five centuries of unbroken ownership by the clan chiefs. The loss of the land dealt a devastating blow to the family, severing the link between the Maclaines and the soil that had borne their name since the middle ages.
The Corbett Era and Preservation
The property passed through a brief interim ownership before the Corbett family purchased it in 1922. The new owner was Archibald Cameron Corbett, a Glasgow philanthropist and property developer who later became Lord Rowallan. Unlike many new owners who might have sought to erase the past, the Corbetts acted as dedicated custodians of the history they had acquired.
The estate remains in the Corbett family to this day. They have undertaken significant work to preserve the mansion, the cottages, and the historic sites on the land. While the Maclaine chiefs no longer reside within the Georgian walls, the house remains a vibrant part of the Mull community. It stands as a testament to the endurance of the families who have called this wild corner of the island home, bridging the gap between the ancient fortress on the shore and the modern world.
