Nun’s Cave (Uamh nan Cailleach)

The Nun’s Cave, known in Gaelic as “Uamh nan Cailleach” (Cave of the Nuns), is a remarkable and historically significant sea cave located on the rugged southern coast of the Ross of Mull, near Carsaig. This natural cave, formed within layers of ancient sandstone topped by more recent basalt columns, is renowned not only for its geological interest but also for the intriguing array of carved symbols on its inner walls, some dating back to the Early Medieval period.

Access to the Nun’s Cave is an adventure in itself, requiring a walk along a challenging coastal path from Carsaig Pier, which can take an hour or more and involves navigating rocky and sometimes slippery terrain. It’s crucial to check tide times as parts of the path are only accessible at low to half tide. The entrance to the cave is relatively wide (around 20 meters) and about 5 meters high, tapering inwards for about 30 meters. Visitors should be prepared for uneven ground and potentially muddy (goat poo) conditions inside.

The cave’s name stems from a local tradition that nuns from the Iona Nunnery sought refuge here during the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century, when monastic life was suppressed and religious treasures destroyed. The most compelling evidence of the cave’s long human use lies in the carvings on its smooth west wall. These include numerous incised crosses, some of which are believed to date as far back as the 6th to 9th centuries, suggesting early Christian use. Later carvings also exist, such as masons’ marks (from the 18th or 19th centuries, possibly related to quarrying nearby sandstone for use on Iona Abbey), an encircled cinquefoil, and even a carved sailing ship from the 17th or 18th century. The presence of these ancient markings, alongside more modern graffiti, makes the Nun’s Cave a fascinating palimpsest of human interaction with this natural shelter over millennia, reflecting its role as a place of refuge, worship, and work.