When most people think of visiting Scottish islands, summer comes to mind. Long days, mild temperatures, and busy harbors. But there’s something special about experiencing the Isle of Mull and the sacred island of Iona during winter. As summer crowds disappear, a peaceful stillness settles over the landscape. These islands reveal a different kind of magic. One of raw beauty, cozy hospitality, and authentic island life.
Why Visit Mull and Iona in Winter?
Winter on Mull and Iona offers a completely different experience from summer. The islands slow down, creating a thoughtful atmosphere. This allows visitors to connect more deeply with the landscape and local culture. The winter light casts long shadows across mountains and sea. This creates amazing photo opportunities at every turn.
Furthermore, the weather adds to the drama. Storm-watching becomes a real activity as Atlantic fronts roll in. Waves crash against the coastline. Rainbows often appear between showers. On clear days, the visibility can be stunning. Snow-capped peaks are visible on the mainland. The crisp air makes every view look sharper.
Most importantly, winter visitors experience these islands without crowds. Popular spots that feel busy in summer become peaceful retreats. You can appreciate the scenery in solitude. Wildlife is still abundant. Many species are easier to spot against the winter landscape. Additionally, the long winter nights offer the possibility of witnessing the magical aurora borealis, or Northern Lights, dancing across the sky. With minimal light pollution, Mull and Iona provide excellent conditions for experiencing this natural phenomenon on clear nights when solar activity is high.
Aurora Craignure January 1st 2025 5:50pm
Seasonal Closures
Before we explore what you can enjoy, it’s important to know what’s not available in winter:
| Location | Place | Winter Status | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Isle of Mull | Duart Castle | Closed Nov–March | Open April–October only |
| Isle of Mull | Glengorm Castle Café & Shop | Closed in winter | Only accommodation open year-round |
| Isle of Mull | Boat tours to Staffa | Closed in winter | Resume around April (Staffa Tours, Turus Mara) |
| Isle of Mull | Mull Theatre at Druimfin | Reduced or paused | Check schedule; limited winter programming |
| Isle of Mull | Mull Cheese Farm visitor centre | Closed or reduced | Limited shop/visitor hours Nov–March |
| Isle of Iona | Martyr’s Bay Restaurant & Bar | Closed Nov–March | Reopens in spring |
| Isle of Iona | St Columba Hotel | Closed in winter | Typically mid-Nov to March |
| Isle of Iona | Argyll Hotel | Closed in winter | Typically mid-Nov to March |
| Isle of Iona | Iona Craft Shop | Closed Jan–mid Feb | Usually open for Christmas, then closed until Feb |
| Isle of Iona | Iona Community Welcome Centre | Closed or minimal | Facilities are not active in winter |
Iona’s Spiritual Journey
The short ferry crossing to Iona operates year-round (weather permitting). Winter is perhaps the most meaningful time to visit this sacred island. Iona Abbey, founded by St. Columba in 563 AD, remains open in winter. Hours are daily except Sunday, 10am to last entry at 3.15pm (closes 4pm).
The ancient stones seem to hold echoes of centuries of prayer and pilgrimage. The quiet atmosphere encourages thought. Walk the sandy beaches with only seabirds for company. Visit the ruined nunnery. Climb Dun I, Iona’s highest point, for panoramic views. In winter, you might have these experiences almost entirely to yourself.
Winter Wildlife Watching
Winter is an excellent time for wildlife enthusiasts. Several tour operators offer specialized winter wildlife tours. They provide expert guidance to spot the island’s most famous residents. White-tailed eagles, Mull’s most iconic birds, are particularly visible. They patrol the coastline with massive wingspans that make them unmistakable.
Additionally, red deer are easier to spot against the barren hillsides. They often move to lower ground in winter. Seals and their pups can be observed around the coastline. If you’re lucky, you might spot otters playing in the quieter bays.
For birdwatchers, winter brings different species to the islands. Look out for barnacle geese, whooper swans, and various waders. These birds overwinter in Mull’s milder climate. Professional wildlife tours operate throughout winter. They offer the best chance to spot these magnificent creatures with experienced local guides.
Seals are a common sight around the shores of Mull & Iona
Winter Walks and Outdoor Activities
Winter walks on Mull reveal the island’s rugged beauty in its rawest form. The Calgary Bay area offers spectacular walks year-round. The stunning white sand beach creates unforgettable scenes against dark rocks and winter skies. As you explore the area, look out for the Calgary Art in Nature trail, which features beautiful wooden sculptures and artistic installations created by local craftspeople. These natural artworks blend harmoniously with the coastal landscape and are particularly striking against the winter backdrop.
Similarly, the walk around the Treshnish headland comes highly recommended by locals. It’s a wonderful winter walk with great views. For those seeking more challenge, Ben More, Mull’s only Munro, presents a serious winter undertaking. It requires proper equipment and experience. The views from the summit on a clear winter day are unparalleled.
One of my favourite walks in winter is up Dùn da Ghaoithe when there is snow on the tops of the mountain. This magnificent Corbett offers breathtaking views across the island and beyond. The snow-covered landscape transforms it into a winter wonderland. The crisp winter air and the crunch of snow underfoot make for an invigorating experience.
The view from Dùn da Ghaoithe
The panoramic views from the summit are spectacular. On a clear day, you can see across to the mainland, other islands, and the vast Atlantic Ocean. Other accessible winter walks include the coastal paths near Fionnphort. The area around Carsaig Arches is also beautiful. Various circuits around Tobermory offer lovely harbor views even in the depths of winter.
Places to Eat in Winter
While some establishments close for winter, Mull retains a good selection of restaurants and cafes. Many offer cozy fires and hearty fare perfect for cold days.
In Tobermory, the Mishnish Hotel serves excellent pub food with a warm welcome. Their seafood chowder is perfect on a cold winter’s day. Winter opening times may vary, so call ahead on 01688 302500. This will help you check current hours and make a reservation.
Likewise, the Western Isles Hotel also remains open in winter. It offers both bar meals and more formal dining options with spectacular views over Tobermory Bay. As one of the island’s larger hotels, they maintain year-round operation. They provide a reliable dining option even in the quietest months.
For casual lunches, many village shops and cafes remain open. Particularly in Tobermory, they offer soups, sandwiches, and hot drinks. These are perfect for warming up after winter walks. The local Co-op and other grocery stores are open year-round. This makes self-catering a viable option for those staying in cottages or apartments.
On Iona, dining options are more limited in winter with the main hotel closed. The Iona Community often provides simple refreshments for visitors to the Abbey. It’s always worth checking what might be available locally upon arrival.
Where to Stay in Winter
Winter accommodation options on Mull are more limited than in summer. But they are still plentiful. Many establishments offer reduced off-season rates. This makes winter a more affordable time to visit.
In Tobermory, the Western Isles Hotel provides spectacular views over the harbor. It offers comfortable rooms, many with sea views. Their winter offers often include dinner, bed, and breakfast packages. This is excellent value when the weather might limit dining options.
For a more intimate experience, consider a self-catering cottage. Many are available year-round. They provide a cozy base from which to explore. Waking up to a winter view across the sea is wonderful. The freedom to prepare your own meals can be the perfect way to experience island life.
Several companies advertise year-round availability with special winter rates. These include Hart of Mull Log Cabins and Ross of Mull Bunkrooms.
Moreover, the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa, just outside Craignure, offers indoor swimming pool and leisure facilities. It’s perfect for unwinding after a day of winter exploration. Their restaurant serves excellent meals featuring local produce. They maintain year-round operation.
On Iona, accommodation options are very limited in winter with the main hotel closed. Some B&Bs and self-catering properties may remain open. It’s essential to book well in advance. Confirm winter availability, as options are significantly more restricted than on Mull.
Practical Tips for Winter Visits
Travel to Mull in winter requires more planning than in summer. The CalMac ferries from Oban to Craignure run year-round. But winter weather can sometimes cause disruptions. It’s wise to check the ferry service status before traveling. Have flexible plans. The Iona ferry also operates in winter, though with a reduced schedule.
Additionally, driving on Mull in winter presents few additional challenges beyond mainland Scotland. Some minor roads may be affected by winter weather. A good winter coat, waterproof footwear, and layers are essential. Scottish winter weather can change rapidly.
Daylight hours are shorter in winter. In December, the sun sets around 3:30-4:00 PM. Plan outdoor activities accordingly. Always carry a torch when hiking.
Finally, many businesses operate with reduced hours in winter. Always check opening times. Book restaurants and accommodation in advance.
Trekking on the Scallastle trail just after a fresh snow fall.
The Winter Reward
Visiting Mull and Iona in winter offers rewards that summer visitors rarely experience. The peace and solitude allow for a deeper connection with these special islands. The hospitality feels warmer when the nights are longer. The landscapes take on an elemental beauty that’s both humbling and inspiring.
Therefore, whether you’re watching waves crash against rugged cliffs or warming yourself by a pub fire after a winter walk, you’ll create lasting memories. Experiencing the profound spirituality of Iona Abbey in quiet contemplation is special. A winter visit to Mull and Iona creates memories that will last a lifetime.
As the locals say, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” So pack your warmest layers, embrace the elements, and discover the magical winter world of Mull and Iona. You might just find it’s the best time to visit.
