Richard Dorrell / Bunessan
Tucked away on the dramatic coastline of the Ross of Mull, Bunessan is a charming village. It serves as the administrative and cultural hub of the peninsula. Visitors discover a place of immense natural beauty and rich history. They also find a strong sense of community. With its stunning white-sand beaches and rugged landscapes, Bunessan offers a tranquil and authentic Highland experience. Ultimately, it is a destination in its own right. It is a place where the pace of life slows, allowing for true immersion in the spectacular scenery of southern Mull.
A Glimpse into Bunessan’s History
The village’s name, Bunessan, derives from the Gaelic ‘Bun Easain’. This translates to ‘foot of the waterfall,’ a nod to the burn that flows down to the sea. For centuries, Bunessan was a small settlement of crofts and fishing cottages. The land and sea provided its lifeblood. However, the 19th century saw significant development. The village became a focal point for the Ross of Mull’s population. They established schools, a parish church, and local shops. The old mill, located at the beginning of Bunessan, was a vital part of the local economy. It remains a reminder of the village’s agricultural and industrial past.
In addition, quarrying was one of the most significant industries in the area. The unique pink granite from the Ross of Mull was a famous export. People shipped it all over the world for monumental and architectural use. For example, the community built the Bunessan Parish Church in 1899. It is a beautiful example of local craftsmanship and a testament to the village’s enduring faith and community spirit. The church stands today as a central landmark. Its bell tower is a welcoming sight for those who arrive in the village.
Bunessan Mill by M J Richardson, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Things to Do and See
Bunessan’s location on the Ross of Mull provides a perfect base for exploring some of the island’s most beautiful scenery.
- Beaches of the Ross of Mull: Just a short drive or a beautiful walk from Bunessan are some of Mull’s most spectacular beaches. For instance, Uisken Beach offers a sheltered bay with white sand and clear turquoise water, perfect for a peaceful stroll. In contrast, Ardalanish Beach is known for its wide expanse of sand and crashing waves. The nearby Ardalanish Isle of Mull Weavers is a working weaving centre and shop showcasing traditional Scottish textiles.
- Exploring the Village: Bunessan itself is a pleasant place for a gentle walk. The Bunessan Post Office and shop is a must-stop for supplies. Run for decades by the beloved Glen Mackellar and his late wife Jessie, Glen continues to serve the community with a warm welcome. The Bunessan Community Hall is a vibrant hub that hosts a variety of local events. These include traditional ceilidhs, offering visitors a chance to experience true island culture. From the village centre, Bunessan also boasts spectacular views across the water to Burg on the wild Ardmeanach peninsula.
- Ross of Mull Historical Society: For those interested in a deeper dive into the area’s past, the Historical Centre offers fascinating insights. Located in Millbrae Cottage next to the old mill, it showcases local history through photographs, artefacts, and genealogical records.
- The Bunessan Parish Church: This striking building is worth a visit for its impressive architecture and serene atmosphere. It stands as a reminder of the village’s history and its role as a spiritual and social centre for the surrounding area.
The Bunessan Inn – A Community Anchor
The Bunessan Inn stands as the heart of the village’s social life. It is an essential stop for any visitor. Located at the centre of the village, this traditional inn has been a welcoming presence for travellers and locals for generations. Its history is tied to the movement of people across the Ross of Mull. It served as a vital resting point for those journeying to and from the remote corners of the peninsula.
Today, The Bunessan Inn retains its traditional charm with a warm and friendly atmosphere. Guests can relax by the fire, enjoy a pint of local ale, and savour delicious food. This includes their famously awesome fish and chips, which they make with freshly caught seafood. The inn prides itself on its culinary offerings, with a menu that also features locally reared lamb and other seasonal delights. The beer garden offers a lovely spot to enjoy a drink on a sunny day. It provides views of the surrounding hills. Ultimately, whether you’re staying overnight or just stopping for a meal, The Bunessan Inn provides an authentic taste of Highland hospitality and a tangible connection to the village’s past.
Where to Eat and Stay
Eating
- The Bunessan Inn is a fantastic choice for both lunch and dinner. It is known for its friendly service and delicious, homemade food.
Staying
- The village has several inviting B&Bs and self-catering cottages. The Bunessan Inn offers a few traditional rooms. These are for those who want to stay close to the village. Rhumhor Cottages is located on the road to Artdun. It provides comfortable accommodation with stunning views of the village. For a peaceful and secluded stay, numerous self-catering cottages are available. They offer an ideal base for exploring the Ross of Mull at your own pace.
Wildlife and Nature
The Ross of Mull is a haven for wildlife. For instance, the coastline around Bunessan is home to common and grey seals. You can often see them basking on the rocks. You can also spot a lone heron standing sentinel in the bay in front of the car park. Otters are also frequent visitors to the sea lochs and shoreline. With a bit of patience, you may spot one hunting for food.
The skies are patrolled by a variety of birdlife. This includes majestic sea eagles, common buzzards, and a host of seabirds. As dusk falls, the distinctive, melancholic cry of curlews can often be heard across the moorland. This sound adds to the sense of peace and wildness. The landscape itself is a fascinating mix of rugged moorland and stunning coastal beauty. It features unique geological formations like the famous pink granite. Walking the coastal paths around Bunessan offers the best chance to spot these creatures in their natural habitat. It also allows you to appreciate the raw, unspoiled beauty of the landscape.
Getting There
Bunessan is located at the end of the A849. This is the main road that runs the length of the Isle of Mull. The journey is a key part of the experience. After arriving on the ferry from Oban to Craignure, you will drive approximately 35 miles (56km) on a winding single-track road. This takes you through the heart of the island’s dramatic scenery. The road is well-maintained and offers spectacular views of Loch Scridain and the surrounding mountains. Public transport is also available. A bus service connects to Bunessan from Craignure, offering a reliable way to get around without a car. The village itself is compact and easily walkable, making it easy to explore on foot once you have arrived.
