Just off the rugged west coast of Mull, nestled peacefully at the entrance to Loch Na Keal, lies the unassuming island of Inch Kenneth. At first glance, its small, grassy expanse and tranquil shoreline suggest nothing more than quiet solitude and picturesque beauty. Yet, beneath this serene exterior lies a history far richer, stranger, and more dramatic than meets the eye. Inch Kenneth is a place where time seems to stand still, but echoes of saints, scholars, clan chiefs, and even notorious 20th-century figures resonate through the centuries.
Accessible only by private boat, this tiny isle, with its unique geology contrasting with volcanic Mull, offers a glimpse into Scotland’s multifaceted past, proving that even the smallest landmasses can hold the most compelling stories.
The Sacred Origins: St. Kenneth and the Medieval Legacy
The island’s very name, “Inch Kenneth” or “Innis Choinnich” in Gaelic, pays homage to its earliest known inhabitant: St. Kenneth (Cainnech of Aghaboe). A contemporary of St. Columba, Kenneth is traditionally believed to have founded a monastic settlement here as far back as the 6th century, establishing Inch Kenneth’s profound sacred roots. Today, the hauntingly beautiful ruins of a 12th-century chapel stand as a poignant reminder of this early Christian heritage. This site was once considered an important monastic centre for Argyll, possibly second only to the revered Iona. Legends even suggest that Inch Kenneth served as an alternative burial ground for Scottish kings if stormy seas prevented passage to Iona, further enhancing its ancient mystique. The graveyard surrounding the chapel, in use until the 19th century, is dotted with exquisite medieval grave slabs dating from the 14th to 16th centuries. These beautifully carved stones, many in the distinctive West Highland style, mark the resting places of Maclean clan chiefs and other significant figures, connecting the island deeply to the powerful Highland clans.Portrait of James Boswell by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1785. Attribute: Joshua Reynolds
The Enlightenment’s Gaze: Dr. Johnson, Mr. Boswell, and Highland Hospitality
Centuries later, in 1773, Inch Kenneth received its most famous literary visitors: the formidable lexicographer Dr. Samuel Johnson and his eager biographer, James Boswell. Their epic “Tour to the Hebrides” brought them to this remote island, where they were warmly hosted by Sir Allan MacLean, the 22nd chief of the Maclean clan, in his island home. Their stay provided a fascinating snapshot of Highland life during the Enlightenment era. Both men penned detailed accounts of their visit, with Boswell’s “Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson” offering a particularly vivid portrayal of Inch Kenneth and its gracious host. These writings captivated readers across Britain, introducing many to the unique charms and complexities of the Scottish Isles and cementing Inch Kenneth’s place in literary history.The Songwriter’s Sanctuary: Sir Harold Boulton and the ‘Skye Boat Song’
As the 20th century dawned, Inch Kenneth found a new owner in Sir Harold Boulton. A figure of considerable cultural significance, Boulton acquired the island in the early 1900s and played a role in enlarging the existing house into the comfortable mansion that still stands today. His most enduring legacy, however, extends far beyond the island’s shores: Sir Harold Boulton is credited with writing the lyrics to one of Scotland’s most beloved and internationally recognized folk songs, ‘The Skye Boat Song’. This connection adds a surprisingly lyrical layer to Inch Kenneth’s already rich tapestry of tales.Inch Kenneth House and formar dwelling of the Mitford family. Image Attribute: Inchwiki
The Infamous Chapter: The Mitford Family’s Controversial Retreat
Perhaps the most sensational chapter in Inch Kenneth’s history began in 1938 or 1939, when the island was purchased by Lord and Lady Redesdale, becoming a retreat for their famously eccentric and often controversial children, the Mitford sisters. This period brought the quiet island into the glare of international intrigue. Central to this era was Unity Valkyrie Mitford, an ardent admirer and personal friend of Adolf Hitler. Following her attempted suicide in Munich upon the outbreak of World War II, Unity was controversially allowed to return to Britain. She spent her final years in relative isolation on Inch Kenneth, grappling with her past until her death in 1948. When the house was later sold by her sister, the communist Jessica Mitford (who famously quipped about turning the island into a “Soviet submarine base”), it was sold fully furnished. This left behind the Mitford family’s personal effects, including astonishing items of Nazi memorabilia, effectively creating a chilling “time capsule” on this remote Scottish isle.Nancy, Diana, Unity and Jessica Mitford. 1932. Source: Wikipedia
