Just off the rugged west coast of Mull, at the entrance to Loch Na Keal, lies the unassuming island of Inch Kenneth. At first glance, its small, grassy expanse and tranquil shoreline suggest nothing more than quiet solitude and picturesque beauty. However, beneath this serene exterior, a rich, strange, and dramatic history unfolds. Inch Kenneth offers echoes of saints, scholars, clan chiefs, and even notorious 20th-century figures across the centuries.
Visitors reach the island only by private boat, and its fertile grasslands contrast sharply with volcanic Mull. As a result, the island provides a remarkable glimpse into Scotland’s multifaceted past, showing that even the smallest landmasses can tell the most compelling stories.
The Sacred Origins: St. Kenneth and the Medieval Legacy
The island’s name, “Inch Kenneth” or “Innis Choinnich” in Gaelic, honors its earliest known association: St. Kenneth (Cainnech of Aghaboe). A contemporary of St. Columba, Kenneth traditionally founded a monastic settlement here in the 6th century, which established Inch Kenneth’s sacred roots.
Today, the haunting ruins of a 13th-century chapel remind visitors of this early Christian heritage. In addition, locals once regarded the island as an important religious centre for Argyll, possibly second only to the revered Iona. Legends even suggest that Scottish kings might have received alternative burials here if stormy seas blocked passage to Iona, adding to its ancient mystique.
The graveyard surrounding the chapel, used until the 19th century, features exquisite medieval grave slabs dating from the 14th to 16th centuries. In fact, skilled West Highland carvers created many of these stones, marking the resting places of Maclean clan chiefs and other notable figures.
The Enlightenment’s Gaze: Dr. Johnson, Mr. Boswell, and Highland Hospitality
In 1773, Inch Kenneth hosted its most famous literary visitors: the formidable lexicographer Dr. Samuel Johnson and his eager biographer, James Boswell. Their epic “Tour to the Hebrides” brought them to the island, where Sir Allan MacLean, the 22nd chief of the Maclean clan, welcomed them into his home.
During their stay, Johnson and Boswell documented Highland life during the Enlightenment era. For example, Boswell’s “Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides with Samuel Johnson” paints a vivid portrait of Inch Kenneth and its gracious host. As a result, their writings captivated Britain, introducing many readers to the Scottish Isles’ unique charms and complexities.
The Songwriter’s Sanctuary: Sir Harold Boulton and the ‘Skye Boat Song’
As the 20th century dawned, Sir Harold Boulton purchased Inch Kenneth. Later, he enlarged the existing house into the comfortable mansion that stands today.
In addition, Boulton created a cultural legacy that stretches far beyond the island: he wrote the lyrics to one of Scotland’s most beloved folk songs, ‘The Skye Boat Song‘. This connection adds a lyrical layer to Inch Kenneth’s already rich history.
The Infamous Chapter: The Mitford Family’s Controversial Retreat
In 1938 or 1939, Lord and Lady Redesdale purchased Inch Kenneth and turned it into a retreat for their famously eccentric and often controversial children, the Mitford sisters. As a result, this period brought the quiet island into the glare of international intrigue.
Central to this era, Unity Valkyrie Mitford admired Adolf Hitler and developed close associations with Nazi leaders. After she attempted suicide in Munich at the outbreak of World War II, her family brought her back to Britain, where she spent her final years on Inch Kenneth until her death in 1948. Later, her sister, communist Jessica Mitford, sold the house fully furnished, joking that it could serve as a “Soviet submarine base.” In addition, the home retained many personal effects of the Mitfords, creating a unique historical “time capsule” on this remote isle.
Inch Kenneth Today: A Private Oasis, A Lingering Fascination
Today, the descendants of Charles Darwin, specifically the family of his great-granddaughter Yvonne Barlow, own Inch Kenneth, having acquired it from Jessica Mitford in 1967.
In addition, the island has returned to a natural state of profound peace and serves as a haven for wildlife, including Barnacle Geese and otters. Although private, the island continues to fascinate visitors. Charter boat services from Mull, typically operating from Easter to October, allow respectful trips to explore the ancient chapel ruins, walk its grounds, and reflect on the lives woven into this small but compelling landscape.
The Island That Holds Untold Stories
Inch Kenneth, despite its modest size, represents a microcosm of Scottish history and human endeavour. From its monastic origins and the echoes of clan chiefs, through the intellectual curiosities of the Enlightenment, to the unexpected connections with a famous songwriter and the unsettling shadows of 20th-century extremism, the island has witnessed it all.
Furthermore, it demonstrates that some of Scotland’s most compelling stories unfold not in grand cities, but on quiet, secluded shores. Visiting Inch Kenneth offers more than a trip; it provides a journey through time, connecting you with the incredible layers of history that whisper across its windswept landscape.
