When you first arrive in Tobermory, your eyes are immediately drawn to the iconic, colourful buildings that line the harbour. It’s a spectacular sight, and it’s easy to see why this picturesque town on the Isle of Mull has captured so many hearts. But as you stroll along Main Street, you’ll encounter a landmark that holds an even deeper and more personal story: the Tobermory Clock Tower.
This elegant stone structure stands proudly on the waterfront, right by the Fisherman’s Pier, in the very heart of the action. It’s a constant presence, a timeless landmark that has watched over the town for well over a century. But this is no ordinary town clock; it’s a poignant memorial with a truly remarkable history.
The Tobermory Clock Tower’s Story
Unlike most town clocks, which are simply functional timekeepers, the Tobermory Clock Tower was built for a much more profound reason. It was erected in 1880 as a memorial, a beautiful and lasting tribute from one sister to another. Its very existence is a testament to love, loss, and legacy.
The Sisters Behind the Tobermory Clock
The story begins with two extraordinary Victorian women: Isabella and Henrietta Bird. Isabella Bird was a celebrated and fearless Victorian explorer, while her sister, Henrietta, was a compassionate and dedicated nurse who had a deep connection to the Tobermory community, where she established a convalescent home.
In this fascinating collection of Bird's previously unpublished letters to her homebound younger sister Henrietta, one experiences her journeys firsthand and gains insight into the ambiguous private life of a woman who often invented her public face. Containing correspondence from her first two grand tours to Australia, Hawaii, and Colorado in 1872-1873, and to Japan, China, Malaya, and the Holy Land in 1878-1879, 'Letters to Henrietta' provides a fresh view of the legendary Victorian traveler.
Tragically, Henrietta passed away from typhoid fever in Tobermory at the age of 49. Heartbroken by the loss, Isabella sought a way to honour her sister that would not only be beautiful but also serve the town Henrietta had so dearly loved.
A Timeless Gift to Tobermory
Isabella commissioned the elegant clock tower as a gift to the people of Tobermory. Designed by her friend, the artist Charles Whymper, the tower was intended to be a functional monument, a constant, reliable presence that would keep time for the community for generations to come.
Today, the clock tower stands as a silent guardian of the harbour, its face a quiet reminder of Henrietta’s kind heart and Isabella’s profound love. It has watched over the daily rhythm of the town for over a century, a witness to countless ferry arrivals, the work of local fishermen, and the many visitors who come to explore. In a perfect continuation of its purpose, the wide base of the tower is now a favourite spot for locals and tourists to sit and enjoy their fish and chips from nearby seafood spots.
On your visit, I hope you’ll take a moment to pause by the clock tower. Look at the plaque at its base and reflect on the sisters whose story is so deeply woven into the fabric of this special place. It’s a perfect reminder that some of the best stories are found in the most unexpected places.
