If you are drawn to the elemental side of Scotland where shelter must be earned rather than provided staying in a bothy on th Isle of Mull offers a rare kind of immersion. These remote shelters exist across the Highlands and islands offering basic refuge to walkers cyclists and solitude seekers. In this guide you will discover how to stay in a bothy responsibly what to expect and how to prepare. Whether you plan to visit Ulva’s Cragaig and Bearnus or Mull’s Tomsleibhe each location demands a different level of readiness and respect for the land.
What Is a Bothy
A bothy is a basic shelter found in remote parts of Scotland. Although most are maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association some are managed by local communities such as Cragaig and Bearnus on Ulva or Teacher’s Bothy and Jane Ann’s Bothy on Gometra. Unlike cottages or campsites most bothies remain unlocked and free to use. They do not offer electricity, plumbing, or modern comforts. If you’re planning a winter visit, be prepared for cold conditions and limited daylight.
Because bothies are usually located far from roads they are accessible only by foot bike or rough track. Walkers and backpackers often use them as overnight stops or emergency shelters. In many cases bothies sit miles from the nearest settlement so visitors must arrive prepared and self-sufficient. Our packing list covers everything you’ll need for remote walks, wild stays, and unpredictable weather.
Importantly bothies do not function as private accommodation. They operate on shared use and mutual respect. Visitors are expected to leave the space clean, share it fairly, and avoid causing damage. This tradition of open access continues to thrive because everyone follows the bothy code and treats the shelter as a communal resource. If you’re considering wild camping as well, our guide covers the rules, top locations, and leave-no-trace tips across Mull.
What to Expect Inside
Although every bothy is different most share a consistent set of core features. When you arrive you can typically expect the following:
- Bare stone walls and wooden floors
- Sleeping platforms or benches bring your own mat and sleeping bag
- A fireplace or stove fuel is not guaranteed
- A table and chairs or benches
- No plumbing no electricity and no mobile signal
In some cases a composting toilet may be available and nearby water sources can be used. However you should always purify stream water before drinking and carry out all waste. Since there are no bins or cleaning staff you must take full responsibility for cleanliness. You may arrive to find the bothy empty or already in use by others. Occasionally you will need to sweep tidy or make minor repairs. That is part of the bothy experience and should be approached with respect and flexibility.
What to Bring
You are responsible for your own comfort and survival so preparation is essential. Before setting out make sure you pack everything required for a safe and self-sufficient stay. Essentials include the following available from Amazon:
- Sleeping bag and mat
- Stove or cooking gear
- Water purification tablets or filter
- Food and fuel
- Torch or headlamp
- Warm waterproof clothing
- First aid kit
- Rubbish bags pack everything out
If you are heading to Cragaig or Bearnus on Ulva keep in mind that these are bookable bothies equipped with composting toilets and wood-burning stoves. Nevertheless you must carry in all supplies including bedding food and water purification. Tomsleibhe on Mull the island’s only MBA bothy is free and unlocked but more exposed making it suitable for hillwalkers tackling Beinn Talaidh or crossing Glen Forsa.
The Bothy Code
Bothy culture is built on mutual respect and minimal impact. To help protect this tradition the Mountain Bothies Association outlines a clear code of conduct:
- Leave the bothy cleaner than you found it
- Don’t hog space share fairly
- Keep noise down especially at night
- Don’t leave food or rubbish behind
- Don’t cut live wood or damage the building
- Respect wildlife landowners and other users
If you are staying in a bookable bothy like Cragaig or Bearnus you will have it to yourself. However the same principles still apply. These are not private retreats they are community assets and must be treated with care and consideration.
Access and Navigation
Most bothies require a walk-in of several miles often over rough terrain. Because signage is rare and shortcuts are unlikely you must rely on your own navigation skills. To reach these shelters safely you will need the following:
- A good map OS Explorer or Landranger
- Compass and navigation skills
- Weather awareness
- Fitness and stamina
Cragaig and Bearnus are each located around five miles from the Ulva ferry slipway. Tomsleibhe is accessed via forestry tracks branching off the A849 near Glen Forsa. None of these bothies can be reached by car so you must plan your route carefully. Always check ferry times and allow for delays. If you intend to walk in winter or poor weather make sure your expectations match the conditions.
Safety and Responsibility
Bothies do not serve as emergency shelters so you should never rely on reaching one in poor weather or darkness. Instead always carry enough gear to bivvy if needed and let someone know your route and expected return. Because mobile signal is rare and rescue services are stretched you must take full responsibility for your own safety.
If you plan to use a stove or fire make sure the space is well ventilated and never leave it unattended. Carbon monoxide poses a serious risk in enclosed areas. To stay safe keep exits clear and always have a torch ready in case of emergency.
Why Stay in a Bothy
Staying in a bothy strips everything back. There are no booking engines no curated experiences and no distractions. Instead you find shelter solitude and the land. You fetch your own water cook your own food and sleep beside the fire. You listen to the wind watch the stars and remember what silence sounds like.
Although bothies are not for everyone they reward those who come prepared. They require planning resilience and a willingness to adapt. For those who understand the appeal bothies offer something rare a chance to be alone to be quiet and to become part of the landscape rather than just a visitor to it.
Final Notes
There are five bothies located on Mull, Gometra and Ulva. Each offers a distinct experience but all share the same off-grid spirit:
- Cragaig Ulva south coast bookable
- Bearnus Ulva north coast bookable
- Tomsleibhe Mull Glen Forsa MBA-maintained free and unlocked
- Teacher’s Bothy Gometra bookable
- Jane Ann’s Bothy Gometra bookable
All five provide genuine off-grid shelter. They are not cottages and they are not curated. Instead they serve as places to shelter reflect and reconnect with the land the weather and yourself.
If you are ready to walk in carry your gear and leave no trace then you are ready for a bothy. Everything else is just accommodation.
Looking for a deeper look at Tomsleibhe? Read our full blog post about this remote Highland shelter in Glen Forsa.
